welts & ribs

welts and ribs have horizontal effects accentuated with padding in the weft direction.

stitching

filling

The three dimensional effect is reached by weaving plain weave on the threads on the first two shafts for a specified length. Long floats appear on the reverse side Then by dropping the first two shafts and lifting the third shaft all the plain weave warp threads go to the reverse side. At this moment the welt is made. It works even better if the stitching threads are on a separately tensioned beam. Halfway through the plain weave section if all the warp threads on shaft 1 7 2 are lifted a filling weft can be introduced in the shed to fill the rib.

The two samples on the left are the face and reverse side of the same weave.

Here the yellow plain weave face has a transparent character The brightly coloured thick filling weft shows through. Also the stitching ends are threaded over more shafts to give an undulating effect like a piqué.