distorted twill can relieve the harsh diagonal of a twill and be done by amending the threading.
distorted twill can relieve the harsh diagonal of a twill and be done by amending the threading.
The key to achieving this wavy effect lies in the thread up. On the left this is straight threading from 1 - 8. Then after a few times of repeating this the threading goes further by elongating the thread-up as seen in the diagram. The lifting is a plain 4/4 twill. To increase stability, a plain weave pick is introduced end and end. If a fine yarn is used for the plain and a more voluminous weft for the floats a good balance is achieved and a stable material. Without this the floats might be too loose. The method affording the most stability is by increasing each unit of two threads within the length of the repeat to four or even more. The principle works very well as long as the draft always jumps from an uneven thread on shaft one to even throughout the length of the draft. Then plain weave can always be woven pick á pick to hold all the weave together. By every increase the thread up the floats get longer so there is a practical limit.
Weaves by Wendy
Four examples of a distorted twill, woven pick à pick,
The weft yarn in the floats is an effect yarn, in the plain weave pick: a finer yarn.