broché with extra warp threads on a separate beam decorative surface pattern can be achieved.

Cloth can be designed with a basic ground structure and embellished with ornamental threads.

If the take up of the extra warp threads is different from the ground cloth, and it usually is, then two warp beams are needed to regulate the tension. With the ornamental stripes on a separate beam, the colourways can be quickly changed if the ground cloth stays the same and only a new warp is needed for the colourful decorative pattern. For industrial production the bands of colour should be spread evenly on the extra beam to avoid warping and tension problems.

On the left below is the underside of the cloth. The long floats are quite risky and could cause snagging. One solution is to introduce stitching points, but this disturbs the surface, Alternately a double weave ground cloth can be made with the long floats hanging in between or stitched to the back, leaving the ground cloth.

With a looser tension on the extra threads which embellish the face, some surprising effects happen when the fabric is not under tension on the loom, especially on the longer floats. When hand weaving it is easy to make variations when the ornamental thread are on one group of shafts, in the case above between 9 -16, then it is very easy to experiment with different forms. of course dependant the shafts available.

In the sample above a rib stripe punctuates the diamond pattern to ensure that the long warp floats on the back are secured at intervals. Top left sample is a mixture of techniques.The weft floats are held in place by blocks of the colourful warp. Having the extra warp threads spread over two groups means that the forms can be off set.Below left takes advantage of the light and dark effect of the warp colours.